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What to watch for in the supermarket

For eighteen years I wrote the long list on the back of the bag. Here is how to read it in the two seconds you actually spend looking — and three things you can check tonight, in your own kitchen, with no list at all.

The notebook open on a page headed supermarket: a drawn chicken breast with a syringe and 40% circled, a slice of cheese in a pan, a jar of peanut butter with the oil line marked

The page I keep coming back to. Three tests, three things on the label.

Three tests, in your kitchen, tonight

Every one of these shows you what a thing is. Not what it does to you — what it is. You will have convinced yourself before I have said a word.

1 The chicken

Do this pour boiling water over a piece of raw chicken.

If white foam comes out, that is not chicken. That is the water and salt they injected to make it heavier on the scale.

2 The cheese

Do this put a slice of cheese in a dry, hot pan.

Real cheese melts and runs. If it puffs up, browns and never runs, that is not cheese holding together. That is the emulsifiers.

3 The peanut butter

Do this open a jar and look at the top.

If there is no oil on top, ask yourself where it went. They hardened the oil so it never separates on the shelf.


What the label says, if you know where to look

A great deal of the raw meat and chicken on the shelf has been injected before it got there: water, salt and phosphates, under pressure. The phosphate holds the water inside the muscle so it does not run out in the tray. The pack gets heavier. The price per kilo stays the same. You pay meat prices for brine.

This is not hidden. The American rules require the percentage of added solution to be part of the product name, and the example printed in the regulation itself is chicken breast: 40% added solution of water, salt and sodium phosphate. Forty percent. Sixty percent of that pack is meat. The salt rides along with it: a plain chicken breast is around 60 mg of sodium in a serving. Injected, it can run 200 to 400. Same bird. The difference is brine.

I spent eighteen years on the other side of that decision. Now I tell you where it hides.


The same thing, from the other side

Half the people who write to me are women, and most of them ask about their skin. So let me say it plainly: health and beauty are the same thing. There is no cream that does what a year of eating properly does. Your skin sits at the very end of the supply line, so it is the first place to show what the rest of you is short of — and the first place to show when it is not. The only way I know to look better for longer is to live better. Everything on this site works on both at once.


The whole list

This page is three tests and three things to read. The guide is the whole shelf: what to leave, what to take home instead, what each of those long words does and why it is in there. It is nearly finished. Leave your address and you hear the day it is out — and the ten glasses are yours today.

What I send you

1,357 people are on the list.

One email now to check the address is really yours. Click the link in it and the glasses open straight away. After that, nothing until there is something worth telling you.

Also on this site: five of the glasses, three recipes, and who I am, and why.


Nothing on this page is medical advice, and I am not your doctor. If you take medication, talk to whoever prescribed it before you change anything.